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64200 Eaton Carter Ground Fueling Light Duty Nozzle Operation and Repair

Episode #4 • 12-13-2023

Chapter 1



Chapter 2



Chapter 3



Chapter 4



The medium to light-duty Eaton Carter Ground Fueling 64200 nozzle is interchangeable with previous models (64348, 64349, and any hose-end control valve with quick disconnect options). In this video tutorial, you’ll learn how to disassemble, inspect, and reassemble the 64200 nozzle. Discover where signs of damage may be found in order to prevent leaks or failure in the future. 


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Our industry experts provide decades of knowledge and
insight into every video so you can get your job done right.

Bobby Sbonek

Technical Sales Specialist-Ground Fueling

For over 20 years, Bobby Sbonek has worked with Eaton Carter Ground Fueling in a variety of roles in manufacturing, assembly, field service, and product development, eventually adding duties in engineering, field service, technical training, and technical sales support. Today, he is the Regional Account Manager for Asia Pacific, where he supports all aspects of the Eaton Carter Ground Fueling product line while working closely with his Asia Pacific distributors.

Jeff Griffith

South East Sales Associate
Becker Aviation

Jeff has over 20 years of aviation industry experience. For more than a decade, he managed GSE refueling maintenance at ASIG, MDW, ORD, and ATL airports. Today, Jeff leads outside sales and on-site training courses nationwide for Becker Aviation. His industry experience and dedication to world-class customer service provide the cornerstones for the Better with Becker video training series.


Full Video Transcript

We've included the full video transcript for each episode, so you can scan quickly to find
the topics you need and read slowly to get the answers you want.


I'm Jeff Griffith with Becker aviation, and I'm Bobby Sibonek with Eaton Carter, and we're here today to go over the 64200 light duty single point nozzle. Some features of this nozzle is it's made with sacrificial parts and it is also interchangeable with previous models 64348, 64349, any hose and control valve or quick disconnect options for those nozzles would also mate up to the 64200 seamlessly.

So this nozzle, the 64200, it has wearable part features, sacrificial parts, being the grips, open closed lever knob. We designed this nozzle to be medium to light duty use. It does have very robust features on it, a wear area that protects the operating handle, as well as sacrificial handles that when dropped or accidentally bumped, the handle absorbs some of the shock. So overall it's a very stout nozzle. 



So at this point, we're going to go into disassembly of the nozzle. We're going to start off on the face of the nozzle. The bumper is easily removed with your hands, so we're going to take it off. And in comparison to some of our other nozzles, this is much easier to remove. 

At this point we're going to use our adapter tool and we're going to open the nozzle. So we have access to our cotter key here and we need to get a screwdriver in here and get the leg bent as straight as possible so we can pull that cotter key out with a pair of needle nose pliers. We want to be careful when we're working in this area not to damage the poppet surface because that is going to be a sealing surface when the nozzle is in the closed position. So once we get that leg bent over, rotate the nozzle around and you can easily get a pair of needle nose pliers in here and remove the cotter pin. Once the cotter pin is removed, we can go ahead and unscrew the poppet. Poppet is removed. We can close the nozzle back and remove our adapter tool. Once the adapter tool is removed. Now we're going to remove the retaining ring. 

At this point we're going to take off our six allen head screws. That's going to hold on our retainer. And as you can see it does take a little bit of force to remove the screws from the nozzle. This is because in this nozzle we use locking helicoils that help retain these which is better in the field so that way by variation they don't usually back out. 

Once all screws are removed, your retaining ring can be removed. Up underneath that is going to be the interlock ring. And under the interlock ring there's going to be four small springs to be removed. At this point we have access now to our no seal interlock assembly and we can remove that. Take a small screwdriver, gently work the interlock assembly loose. Once we have it loosened up all the way around it'll be easily removed by hand, like so. 

One thing to point out with the interlock assembly and the nose seal is that it is all one piece. And the nose seal, the rubber portion, is bonded to the interlock assembly. And it's all complete, one unit. You can't replace one or the other. Up underneath that is going to be two Teflon washers. And the primary use of these Teflon washers is so you don't have metal to metal surface when the nozzle is being rotated open and closed. Inside the body of the nozzle is going to be an O-ring and up underneath that is going to be a backup ring. Again we're going to take a little small screwdriver and be very careful not to scratch any of the ceiling surfaces or any of the grooves inside where the O-rings will sit and ride. There's the o-ring. Next we're going to remove the backup ring. Now the backup ring's been removed.

At this point, we've removed everything from the face of the nozzle and we can work on the handles, the crank arm assembly, and the linkage. To remove the handles, they're held in with an Allen head screw. Bobby, if these handles are hard to remove, what are some options that we have to get them removed from the body of the nozzle? Well most of the time you should be able to remove them by hand but during certain certain circumstances when they're very difficult to remove you can use a rubber mallet and the rubber mallet is preferred because it doesn't leave any marks or damage to the the part itself. Perfect. We're gonna work these handles loose remove them from the body of the nozzle Like so. 

Next we're going to remove our blue O-ring, and this is going to be our sealing O-ring to whatever attachment that we have with the nozzle. Being a quick disconnect or a hose end control valve, it will be the same O-ring no matter what option you have. So again, gently remove the O-ring, try to prevent any damage or scoring to any of those sealing surfaces where these O-rings will sit. Up underneath that is going to be our race ring, and this ring is going to be where the ball bearings ride. So we want to remove that, and we're going to inspect this race ring at a later time. The last thing that we're going to remove is our continuity clip, which is located right here. And if you just gently pull up on that a little bit, and then you'll be able to get a pair of needle nose pliers in here. 

And Jeff, what is the purpose of the continuity clip? The continuity clip's purpose is just to provide continuity from the nozzle body itself through the different components to the hose when it's connected to the aircraft. And there's the continuity clip. At this point, we're going to start the disassembly of the crank arm from the linkage. To start that, we're going to have a cotter key located here in our castle nut. Like the previous cotter key we got to get the leg of the cotter pin bent back over as straight as possible so we can easily remove it. 

There's the cotter key. We're working with that cotter key. We want to try and make sure that we're not using this surface here as a pry mechanism, causing damage to the body of the nozzle. Once we have the cotter key removed, now we're going to remove the castle nut, and that's held in place with a 7/16. Once we have it loosened up, it should be very easy to remove by hand at that point. There's the castle nut. At this point, we're going to remove the linkage pin. The linkage pin can be removed in a couple different manners, but what I find most easily is to remove one of the blue ports on the body of the nozzle and that'll give me better access for an Allen head wrench to come straight down which we'll illustrate in a minute. 

Are there other ways to do it if a customer has another item in that slot that they don't want to remove? There is. You can use the short end of the Allen head and get in through the front and rotate a quarter turn at a time but you find that very time consuming. As I'm removing the Allen head, the plug, I'm using an Allen head socket to remove it. There's the plug. And as again, as stated earlier, now I can see everything down through this hole from the plug I removed. I rotate the assembly around until I can see through the very top. I can take my Allen wrench and remove this pin. There's the pin. And between the linkage and the crankshaft is going to be a washer. We want to make sure that we don't lose that. 

Now at this point, I'm going to remove the three Allen head screws holding on our open/close lever. You can spin them off by hand. There is our open close lever. Now, we can remove the crank arm, the o-ring, and the teflon washers. There's the crank with a flange bearing. And inside the body of the nozzle is an unflanged bearing. And as everything is put together it sits in the housing just like this where your two bearings, Teflon washer, O-ring, Teflon washer on the outside. At this point we can now remove the linkage and the linkage is easily pulled up through the body of the nozzle and the linkage is held together with a pin. So at this point, disassembly is complete for the 64200 nozzle. 



At this time, Bobby's going to go over a couple inspection items and wear components on some of these items we've taken off. 

Thank you, Jeff. As Jeff pointed out, once this is fully disassembled, we want to inspect the whole part, make sure that there's no damage or any stress cracks. It's very important to make sure that there's no damage that might cause failure later on. So what we normally do is we look through regions where you see impact damage or scuff marks or wear marks. We just want to check to see for any stress cracks around the front end region, around the interlock portion, or around the handle portion. So you'll look in this region right here for stress cracks or any wear damage from the interlock assembly. And you also want to look in any O-ring gland to make sure there's no damage. Are there any other areas you might see that might cause some damage or issues in the field? 

Yeah, we also want to inspect underneath where the handle grips would go. Sometimes through inadvertent impacts, there may be some stress cracks in these areas as well in the body of the nozzle. That's a great point, Jeff. Thank you. Some other items that you want to look at is you want to look at your crank assembly. Your crank assembly uses bearings, which are important to prevent damage from metal to metal contact. So if these have been worn through you might see some damage across there so it's imperative to check that as well. 

Now are there any other areas that you typically see damage on? Yes, the threads that hold the three Allen screws on that secures the handle to the crank we've seen through over tightening there may be some stress cracks on the outside of this crank arm so we want to inspect those to make sure that there's no cracking in there. Excellent, that's a great point. We do see damage in that region as well when people use mallets or if an item is not properly rotated in the full open position when they're refueling. So sometimes we do see issues with that where the handle swings shut and it causes deformation across here as well. So the crank pin is another really critical item to look at. In this shoulder right here what happens is the linkage assembly wears into the shoulder of the crank pin and we see sometimes where the crank pin has almost been worn completely through because they haven't replaced it so it's very important to always look at that to make sure that there's not excessive wear. 

Other critical areas to look at would be your poppet assembly. If you see excessive wear or slop in here you'll want to pull it apart which is pretty easy, just remove a retaining ring and there's a couple washers and some ball bearings in there. Other areas that are less critical would be the nose seal. If you're not replacing the nose seal, you want to make sure that there's no excessive wear or damage across the nose seal itself. If you are replacing it, there's not so much to worry about there. 

Like Jeff was talking about earlier, we're going to inspect the race ring as well because the race wing does have issues where it wears out so it's easily replaceable. And of course any sacrificial parts, if you're replacing the bumper or the handles, if you see any stress cracks across here, it's usually good to replace them. So that's pretty much it. You just want to go back through and make sure that all the items are in good condition that you're going to be reusing. Any parts that are damaged or have stress cracks you want to replace. So that's very imperative to replace any parts that are questionable. And then as you go back through it, you want to make sure all the parts are clean. Cleanliness is extremely important. 



Now we're going to start on the reassembly of the nozzle, and we're pretty much going to go in the same order that we took things apart. First, we're going to start off with our linkage assembly. And the linkage assembly has two holes, the larger hole is going to be in the up position when we go to reassemble. That's what's going to attach our crank arm back to our linkage assembly. As mentioned when we disassembled it we just have a pin that holds these two items together. So I'm going to reattach these two components like that and I like to hold them between two fingers and inside the body of the nozzle you're going to see a groove in the side of the nozzle and that's what's going to go down the flat edge of the linkage is going to slide straight down into that groove. Once I get everything aligned I can just drop the linkage down into place. 

And that little pin is held in place by the body itself? Yes, that's correct. You'll see down inside there there'll be a housing that the pin is encapsulated in and you don't have to worry about that pin coming out. So at this point, now once we got the linkage back down inside the housing, we can put the crank arm back together. Now one critical point when putting the crank arm back together is we have our flange bearing that goes down against the crankshaft itself. But if we put that flange bearing inside the body of the nozzle first, that does not give us enough room to put the crank arm in place. So that flange bearing has to be installed on the crank arm and now that allows us enough clearance to be able to push that into place. And at this point in the reassembly, the crankshaft is really wobbly and really loose. I like to continue to build up the outside of the crankshaft and it keeps it more stable so I can connect the two components back together. 

So at this point, we have our second bearing that we're going to install down in the housing. Again, being real careful not to scratch any of these surfaces, we just gently push that bearing down into place. And we're going to take one of our Teflon washers, install that, again pushing that all the way down. And now our O-ring. Once we get this O-ring pushed down into place, that's going to give us a lot of stability. As you can see here, I can rotate this crank arm and it will stay in any position that I want it to stay in. So once we have that complete, we're going to reattach the linkage and the crank arm assembly. 

As mentioned when we disassembled the unit, we have a washer that sits in between these two components. And I like to use a little bit of petroleum lubrication to hold that washer in place so it doesn't fall off. I can take our little washer and set it right on top there. And again, because I removed that plug, I can use this access point to get everything in alignment. So I'm going to rotate that over, ensuring that the washer stays in the position. I'm going to gently bring the linkage up and I'm going to pick up on it slightly so I don't move that washer out of position and I'm going to sit it straight down. And there's our pin and we're going to get that started. 

Once we have that pin started in place, I can now use my Allen wrench to come down through the top and secure that pin in place. So once we have that in place, you'll notice on that pin it had a shoulder on it. So once you have that pin all the way bottomed out, that's all the tight you need to fasten that pin. So once we have that in place, we can put our castle nut back in here. We're going to use and put in our continuity clip. You'll notice on the continuity clip there's two legs. You just kind of pinch those together a little bit and insert it back into the housing. And you want to rotate that continuity clip all the way over until it rests on the inside of the body of the nozzle. And that continuity clip will stay in place once we put our quick disconnect or our hose and control valve in place. don't have to worry about it falling out. Next we're going to install our race ring. This race ring will go in the second groove inside the body of the nozzle and this can go in in either direction. And you heard that snap into place. One key thing is the gap in the race ring. You want to point that in the opposite direction of where you installed the ball bearings. Excellent point. 

One other thing you want to look for is to make sure that the race ring doesn't drag across the O-ring gland, cause any damage in there as well. Excellent point. Next we're going to install the blue o-ring that goes on the very inside top of the nozzle. This blue o-ring is going to be utilized and be your seal for whatever attachment that you're using with the nozzle. At this point I'm going to finish building out the outside of my nozzle and I have the last remaining Teflon washer will go on the outside. 

Alright, at this point we're installing the three Allen head screws on the open/close lever. During this time we're going to recommend using a blue Loctite. Why would we use blue Loctite, Bobby? Well, the blue Loctite is a medium strength Loctite. It's there to make sure that the screws don't back out over time through vibration, but it still allows the part to be easily serviceable. If we went with a high strength or a permanent, it would be very difficult to disassemble. Great point. As I got everything hand tightened, I want to just do a quick functions check, make sure I got everything rotated correctly and we don't have any binding or any of that stuff with the linkage. 

At this point I can go ahead and fasten the Allen head screws with my socket and we would like to recommend referencing the service manual for all these fasteners as there are a torque spec for every fastener with the nozzle. Everything is pretty much in inch pounds so a small inch pound torque wrench would suffice for reassembly. At this point we can now install our grips and our grips most times are easily installed by hand, but from time to time a rubber mallet may be needed for installation. 

So once we get the handles reinstalled, now we can secure them with our Allen head bolts. And you want to ensure that the insert is inside the handle before you install the bolts. The insert basically prevents the bolt from pushing all the way through the plastic. It helps protect the plastic. Once we have the handle secure, the last component we have is our cotter key and our castle nut. And you'll want to reference our safety bulletin and you'll want to reference our safety bulletin to make sure that you install it properly. It has a very well illustrated outline of how to install it without causing any issues. And on this castle nut here, hand tight, is suffice. And you want to make sure that you're aligned with the castle nut and the hole in the pin so you can easily insert the new cotter pin. As you'll notice, I'm using a new cotter pin for reassembly. 

Now, should we ever reuse an old cotter pin? You should never reuse an old cotter pin. They get weak over time when you bend the legs. And so definitely recommend always using a new cotter pin. Once we have that in place, we wanna get one of our legs bent over. And we can use a pair of needle nose pliers. And once we have that cotter pin in place, we want to just do a quick functions check to make sure that we don't have that cotter pin is dragging on any of that inside surface inside the body of the nozzle. Once we don't hear any dragging, we know we have it installed correctly. At this point we're going to install the plug that we used to access the pin. 

Now when you're installing it is there anything that you would add to it to help prevent any leakage? I would recommend installing a thin layer of Teflon tape. Now why do we recommend not using much Teflon? We don't want to use much Teflon because we don't want that extra Teflon to drop down into the body of the nozzle and get into flow stream. Once we have that secured, the whole top half of the nozzle is now reassembled and we can focus on the front side. 

As we disassembled in the beginning, we have our backup ring, and that's going to go inside that top groove of the nozzle, and we're going to install that first. Just like that. Next is going to be our O-ring, and the O-ring is going to sit right on top of the backup ring. Just like that, right in that groove. Now at this point we can take a little bit of petroleum lubricant and gently put a light coat on that O-ring and that will help us install the no seal interlock assembly so we don't cut it or it doesn't roll out on assembly. 

Next is going to be our two Teflon washers and those are going to sit face down just like that. And what's the reason we have two Teflon washers as opposed to one? Well each surface will be rotating so you have one Teflon for the body of the nozzle, one Teflon for the no seal interlock assembly. So it's extremely important to make sure that we always put the two back in as opposed to one or not putting them in there at all. That's correct. 

So once we have the Teflons installed we can now take our no seal interlock assembly and you'll notice there's two tabs on either side of the no seal interlock assembly and they will correspond with the grooves in the body of the nozzle. So in a sense they're both keyed. That's correct, it will only go in in one direction and if you have it in the opposite direction you won't be able to fully seat the assembly. How would that look if I was in the opposite direction? This would be in the opposite direction. You'll see that tab overhangs the body of the nozzle and won't be able to be installed properly. So rotate that back over and you'll see here I like to have these two tabs all the way in one direction and that allows me for final installation to push and turn at the same time. Again, trying to avoid cutting that o-ring that's on the inside of the body of the nozzle or potentially rolling it over. So what you're saying it's very important to make sure that we are always applying even pressure as we're installing it. That's correct. Even pressure down and rotating simultaneously. Just like that. 

Now at this point you'll be able to see the internal interlock, right now we're not able to open the nozzle, but when we're hooked up to an aircraft adapter or bottom load receptacle, the interlock no seal assembly is what's actually turning internally. That would be in the open position and now we're able to open and close the nozzle. When we're disconnecting, the interlock no seal assembly rotates back closed and we're not able to open the nozzle. 

During the final installation I like to keep everything in the closed position just to ensure that I have everything in the correct spot. And you can easily check that by moving the handle and it's not opening. That's correct. 

At this point we're ready to finish the top half of the nozzle and In the very top of the interlock no seal assembly, you'll see holes. These springs will go in each hole. And they just sit down inside each hole. 

All right, once we have the four springs installed in each slot in the interlock assembly, we have our interlock ring. And our interlock ring has four nubs on one side and it's flat on the other side. The nubs go face down and each one will sit on top of each spring. Just like that. Next we have our retainer. You'll see our retainer has two slots at the top of the retainer, and there's an alignment pin in the body of the nozzle. This retaining plate will only go on in one direction, and if it's in the opposite direction, it will not allow you access to secure the six allen head bolts. That would be the plate in the correct position, and I'm going to flip it over so you could see it in the incorrect position. That would be in the incorrect position as you can see you don't have access to all six bolt holes. Take our allen head screws. As you noticed, I only installed two of the Allen head bolts. There will be six on the 64200 nozzle, but for simplicity reasons, we only utilize two for this training. 

So the last component that we have to install is the poppet, and we want to make sure that we get the poppet adjusted correctly. As you'll notice on the poppet, there's four slots around the outside of the poppet, and when we get this initially installed, we're going to open the nozzle back up, install the poppet and we're going to rotate the poppet all the way down till we can't go any further and then we're gonna back it off seven of these slots or one and three-quarters turn. 

To do that we're gonna take our adapter tool, open our nozzle back up and you'll see there is the hole for our cotter key that we're going to align one of the slots up with. So we're going to get the poppet started and we're going to rotate it until it's all the way in the down position. 

So once we get to poppet all the way down and we can barely see light through that last slot, this is where we're going to start the adjustment process. We're going to turn seven of those slots or one and three quarter turn. Three, four, five, six, and seven. 

At this point in time I have a new cotter pin and I'm going to install it so my poppet doesn't move. I'm going to install it in the slot just like that. At this point I'm not going to bend over any legs. I'm going to close the nozzle, remove our adapter tool, and utilize our poppet adjustment tool. As you'll notice, one leg on the poppet adjustment tool is longer than the other. The center section of the poppet adjustment tool is going to sit flat right on top of the poppet, and we're going to run it back and forth. And what we want is we want one of the legs to hit the body of the nozzle, and we want the other leg to clear the body of the nozzle. If that doesn't happen, as in this instance, both legs are clearing, that means we have the poppet not adjusted correctly. 

So we have to open the nozzle back up. We're going to remove our cotter key and we're going to rotate one more turn at a time until we have it adjusted correctly. Reinsert our cotter key, close our nozzle, remove the adapter tool, and again use the center section, sit it on top of the poppet, and we want one side to hit and and the other side to clear. Just like that. Check it again in another spot. We clear on one side and hit on the other. Now we know we have the poppet adjusted correctly. 

Now what are some of the issues we might have if it's not adjusted properly? Well if it's too loose it could cause a leak and if we over tighten it the poppet will actually start to smash or deform the rubber part of the nose seal, also causing a leak. So in essence, we could cause the nose seal to fail early or cause it to leak while it's stored on a vehicle. That's correct. So it's very imperative to ensure that it's adjusted properly. Absolutely. Always want to make sure that you're using that adjustment tool when reinstalling the poppet. So once we know we got the poppet adjusted correctly, we take our adapter tool, we open the nozzle back up, and at this point we need to bend over one of the legs on the cotter key. 

Now as you're bending over the tine or the leg, is there anything I should be aware of before I start bending it? Is there any critical area I should watch out for damage? I just want to make sure that I'm not going to scratch any surface, particularly the surface on the underside of the poppet. I don't want to gouge it with a screwdriver or a pair of pliers because that could potentially cause a leak prematurely. 

Once you get the cotter pin and the leg all the way secured, we can now close our poppet, remove our adapter tool. Just to be safe, we're going to check it one more time. We clear on one side, hit on the other side. We know we haven't accidentally adjusted our poppet unintentionally. Check our nozzle, make sure it's in the closed position. Reinstall our bumper, which is easily put on by hand. And that concludes the disassembly, inspection, and reassembly of the 64200 nozzle. 


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